Saturday, November 2, 2013

Discovering Greece - The National Archaeological Museum in Athens

 
The endurance and influence of art is celebrated throughout Greece, but especially in Athens, 
where the writers and sculptors of ancient Greece continue to spark our imaginations.
A visit to the National Archaeological Museum is a must for anyone visiting this city.
 
 We started before sunrise in a most beautiful breakfast location
the rooftop restaurant of the Athens Gate Hotel
overlooking the Acropolis.
 
 
As you enter the first room of the National Archaeological Museum
you see the death masks of an ancient Mycenaean royal family.
The archaeologist who discovered this group of graves thought he had found the burial circle for King Agamemnon,
a leader of the 10-year siege of Troy, described in The Iliad
 
{When he returned from the Trojan War with his prize Cassandra
Agamemnon was murdered by his wife Clytemnestra and wife's lover Aegisthus. 
They were later murdered in revenge by his son Orestes and daughter Electra. 
And we think modern families are dysfunctional!}
 
Later analysis of the artifacts dates them to be before the time of Agamemnon
but they are amazing finds more than 3000 years old.
 
 
The ancient Mycenaeans covered the bodies of their loved ones in gold plate, an action I can understand. 
They were probably influenced by the ancient Egyptians, who had similar rituals. 
Our girls were fascinated with the baby masks. 
 
 
I preferred the gold crowns and clothing trims. 
This room was dazzling once I realized the items were solid gold and absolutely ancient.

 
There were also rooms full of pottery, weapons and other artifacts, well preserved and maintained.
 
 
We even found a 4500-year-old hedgehog for Carlee - still cute.
 
 
These ancient stone statues inspired Picasso.
The fiddle-shaped pieces were models for shields.
 
 
And of course I like these ancient musicians.

 
Next, we found the rooms that prompted Carlee to complain, "Why does Mom take so many pictures of naked people?"  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
 
There were numerous examples of the Korai and Kouroi - female and male statues sculpted from around 600 to 490 BC. 
Many of these were found around the Acropolis, depicting devotees to the Goddess Athena. 
The young ladies dress modestly, while the lads show off their youth and virility.
 
 
The classical period of Greek sculpture began after Athenian victories in the Peloponnesian Wars, when the best-known statues were created in Marble and Bronze.
 
This one of Poseidon or Zeus was found in the remains of a shipwreck.
 
 
I think this statue of Aphrodite graced one of my college textbooks
 
 
Check out those external obliques, Carlee!

 
Here Pan tries to seduce Aphrodite, who is fending him off with her shoe. 
Little Eros tries to help her.
 
I always felt sorry for the Minotaur.

 
There are several rooms full of funerary art - depictions of everyday (wealthy) Athenians, rendered for their burial vaults. 
The themes are similar, with family members mourning a loved one
as they are welcomed to the afterlife by ancestors or gods. 
I was moved by the emotion depicted in these sculptures - imagine mourning a person who died 2300 years ago! 
Such is the power of art. 
 
 
The Antikythera Shipwreck is a temporary exhibit of artifacts that went down around 50-60 BC.
What does 2000 years in seawater do to bronze?   See this statue believed to be Perseus or Paris:
 
 
Marble is a different story.  This statue landed head-first in the sand, with shocking results:

 
A roomful of these statues reminded me of the crew of Davy Jones' ship
in Pirates of the Caribbean 2-3.

 
Can you imagine finding these on the bottom of the ocean?


Archaeologists think this was supposed to be Odysseus -
an appropriate rendition considering his long journey and many years on/in the sea.
 
 
And Achilles, before his long sojourn in the Land of the Shades.

 
The Antikythera Shipwreck shows the trade in ancient Greek art that began during the Roman Empire. 
The Romans greatly admired the artwork and ideas they found in Greece. 
They copied the sculpture, the myths, and some aspects of the democratic government -
all of which were passed to future generations and reconstituted in the New World
when the United States of America built her constitution and capitol.
 
This admiration saved Greece from being completely dominated by the Italians at any point in their history
even when Italy controlled Greek islands and mainland.
 
Today, the Greeks still benefit from on their ancient artists, as tourism is a major industry for the country.

 
The lasting power of art...and seawater!
 
 
 
 
 
 


Saturday, October 26, 2013

Discovering Greece - The Acropolis of Athens


I've long dreamt of visiting Greece, home of the Olympians and their myths.
 
The Parthenon in the Acropolis is one of the best known buildings in the world.  It was completed in 438 BC to celebrate Athenian victory over Persian invaders.  Its Doric columns are delicately tapered and curve slightly inwards, making the building stable and beautiful.  Most of the frieze and other sculptures have been removed to the recently built Acropolis Museum.
 
 

An Acropolis is a high area of a city, especially in Greece 
Ancient Athens built this huge Acropolis theatre for her citizens

 

 
As you approach the Parthenon through the olive trees
the temple dedicated to Athena Nike (winged goddess of victory) shines in the sun. 
 
 
And when you get to the top, the view of Athens is terrific!
 
 
We could even see our hotel, the Athens Gate. 
It is two buildings to the right of the column in the park;
you can see the green rooftop restaurant.
That's Hadrian's Gate to the left of the picture.
 
 
This temple was built in the spot where Athena and Poseidon competed for
the affections of the people of this region, known as Attica. 
Poseidon offered them the gift of the horse, but Athena gave them the world's first olive tree. 
It's descendent grows in a sheltered spot to the left of the temple below.
 

 
These beautiful ladies guard the temple for eternity.
 

 
We found several tortoises around the Acropolis.
 
 
The girls' history teacher requested a picture of the Agora. 
We aren't sure why, but the big temple is very pretty from a distance.
 


At night, they light the Parthenon and other ancient buildings on the Acropolis.  Beautiful!
 
  
 
The Acropolis Museum is one of the best in the world.
It contains sculptures found around the Acropolis,
as well as the frieze from the Parthenon.
Unfortunately, they don't allow photos, so you'll have to visit Greece to see!
 
 
Under the glass floors, you can see the remains of an ancient Athens neighborhood
that are still being excavated beneath the museum. 
 
 
After a busy day sightseeing, we found this outdoor café in an alley. 
Live music, olives, plate throwing - who could ask for more?
 

 


Saturday, September 28, 2013

Discovering Jordan - Chapter 2 - First Impressions

Abdullah points out the ancient wall surrounding modern Amman

 
Traveling in a foreign culture is uncomfortable one moment and wonderful the next.  Your senses sharpen and adrenaline flows.  You are a liminal character, a newcomer, displaced and unrestricted.  You notice details the local inhabitants take for granted, though your understanding is limited.  You take a snapshot of an iceberg, missing many of its angles, barely aware of the bulk under the water.  Your photograph is beautiful nevertheless.
 
Our first welcome to Jordan came from my daughter’s Arabic teacher, who greeted us warmly in the Dubai airport. His family was traveling home to Amman on our flight.  My daughters later explained that several of their classmates and teachers are Palestinian, but their families live in Jordan.  In fact, about a third of Jordan’s 6.5 million people are Palestinian refugees or their descendants.  Jordan has been a haven for refugees during much of its history, and currently shelters thousands of Syrians fleeing their civil war.  We tourists would be welcome too.
It was night when we arrived in the capital city.  Amman’s airport was crowded and a bit smoky, but organized.  We made our way to the exit, and found Abdullah, our driver and guide for the tour.  He was handsome and looked younger than I expected, with dark hair, tan skin, friendly eyes, and a stylish overcoat.  He shook our hands in a professional manner and led us to our car, a Hyundai sedan.  The girls and I squeezed into the back seat and we began the hour-long drive to Madaba.
Abdullah spoke English well and filled the driving time with information about Jordan.  One of the oldest cities in the world, Amman is built on seven hills and has eight ring roads or circles linking different parts of the city.  Along the way, we could see modern lights and buildings give way to dark countryside, interrupted every few kilometers by a lighted outline of an Arabic coffee-pot, suspended over a shack by the side of the road.  Abdullah explained that these hospitality stands sell hot drinks, candy-bars and cigarettes.
As we drove into Madaba, I noticed piles of rubble and trash filling vacant lots between homes and businesses.  There were pieces of black plastic caught in fences and trees.  Abdullah stopped at a convenience store to ask directions to our hotel while I eyed the knot of young men in worn jackets smoking outside.  I felt uneasy, not understanding that we were on the industrial side of town.
We found the Black Iris Hotel on a quiet street, a few blocks uphill from the business district.  The entrance was dark, but Abdullah knocked and our sleepy innkeeper unlocked the door and turned on the lights.  Obed’s bedding was rumpled on the couch of a living area.  A traditional hotel counter was on the other side of the room along with a lending library, drink cooler, and bulletin boards with maps and tour information.  Obed quickly checked us in, passed out large water bottles and walked us to our rooms at the far end of the inn.
Dismayed, I noted the faded wallpaper, unshaded light bulbs, threadbare carpet and worn furniture.  We had reserved the ‘family suite’ for four nights, and it was freezing.  Obed turned on room heaters for us, handed Bob the key on its ancient wooden fob and left us to unpack.  What had I done?  I apologized to the family for trying to save money and stay in charming Madaba instead of Amman; this hotel received positive reviews on Trip Advisor, mostly because Obed is such a nice guy. 
My sweet husband patted my shoulder and said it was fine.  He confirmed that the sheets were clean, cheerfully pointed out that the rooms were warming up and helped the girls get organized.  None of them complained.  Well, Jordan is not Dubai, I thought to myself, and we wanted to experience the way people live in this part of the world.  After finding modern plumbing and hot water in the bathroom, I resolved to mirror my family’s positive attitudes.
I snuggled into the crisp sheets a few minutes later and relaxed, grateful for Bob’s warmth.  
Who says you need four stars to be content? 

 
 

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Discovering Jordan - Chapter 1 - Planning

 
Peaceful Umm Qais, near the borders of Israel and Syria
 
Many Westerners visit Israel, and skip holy sites on the Arab side of the River Jordan.  They might spend one day admiring Petra, the hidden jewel of the ancient Nabataean Empire, on a highlight tour of the region.  We like to take the roads less traveled, and as we are just getting to know many Arab people in Dubai, we want to continue learning about their perspective.  We also discovered that Jordan offers ancient historical sites, adventure opportunities, beautiful vistas, and friendly people who welcome American visitors.

Two weeks to plan a major trip is not our usual modus operandi, but after moving to Dubai over the summer of 2012, the holidays arrived quickly.  And not knowing how long we’ll live in the Middle East, we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see nearby countries.  So the day after Thanksgiving, we started scheduling our Christmas vacation.

First, we held a family meeting to list qualities of a great vacation.  I wanted a safe and interesting country, where it would be cold in December, and we might join Christmas celebrations, as I was a little homesick.  Our energetic teenagers wanted to hike, climb rocks, learn about history, see beautiful natural areas, and maybe go to a beach.  Hubby’s coworkers recommended Jordan, where we could do all these things and also ride camels!

Map courtesy of Lonely Planet

Our last-minute plan was actually well-timed, because Syria’s civil war and Egypt’s civil unrest have chased many tourists out of the region.  The hotels and guide should not have been available during a major holiday with only a few days’ notice.  But Jordan was safe and had plenty of room for us, and we hope we helped their struggling economy just a little.
After reading suggestions and reviews on the VisitJordan, Trip Advisor and Lonely Planet websites, we mapped out a personal tour starting in the north and concluding at the Dead Sea.  We chose a Jordan-based tour operator that sounded small and interesting, yet professional.  Raami Tours was started by the son of a Dutch New Zealander, Marguerite van Geldermalsen, who fell in love and married a Bedouin Jordanian, raised their children in a cave in Petra, and later wrote a highly-recommended book Married to a Bedouin.  I was charmed by the literary connection as well as the promise that all Raami guides are Bedouins with inside information on local culture and the best hiking trails.  

Then, following suggestions from friends and reviews from Booking.com, we booked our own flights and hotels for 9 nights in Jordan.  If we had more time to plan, it would have been better to let the tour company guide us and book the hotels.  Not realizing the area is mountainous, I scheduled four nights in Madaba, which looks close to Amman on the map.  We would have saved hours of drive-time by staying in Amman for the first two nights and northern tours.  The drives were interesting, though, and we had fun exploring Madaba in the evenings, so no regrets.

To prepare for the trip, we watched Lawrence of Arabia, which was filmed mostly in Wadi Rum.  The kids thought it was too long, even when we pointed out that Prince Faisal is played by a young Alec Guinness, aka Obi wan Kenobi. 
 
 
I anticipated having a Bedouin Omar Sharif guide us through Wadi Rum.
 
 
 The girls prefered the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, which concludes in Petra.
 
We bought sturdy hiking shoes, and packed flashlights and towels as we would be camping in the desert at least one night.  I also picked out my Christmas present, a Panasonic Lumix camera with a zoom lens. 
Our adventure descriptions will consume future blogs, but for readers who are planning trips to Jordan, the highlights of our tour are listed below.  We listed too many activities, but weren't disappointed when plans changed a little – unexpected hitches make an adventure, and one of the many benefits of scheduling a private tour is the flexibility to go at our own pace.  This was a memorable trip!

Day 1 – Amman City Tour, Roman Theatres, Citadel Panorama, Archeological Museum, lunch in local café, Cave of the Seven Sleepers
Day 2 – Drive through Rift Valley and Irbid, Umm Qais Tour, Abdulla’s Shortcut - skip Ajlun Castle, Jerash

Day 3 – Madaba Mosaic - Church of St. George, Mt. Nebo, Elijah’s Hill, Bethany Beyond the Jordan, Kerak Castle, drive through Wadi Musa, Christmas Eve in Madaba

Day 4 – Drive along King’s Highway, Shobak Castle, hike Dana Wilderness Reserve (south of Tafila), night at Feynan Ecolodge

Day 5 – Hike out of Dana Wilderness Reserve and drive along Jordan’s Worst Road to Petra.  Exhausted and near melt-down, skip a Little Petra hike and check in early at the Petra Moon Hotel.  After naps, showers, ice cream and dinner, enjoy Petra by Night with candlelight.
Day 6 – Full day in Petra

Day 7 – Wadi Rum Camel Tour, Jeep Tour, Camp in Bedouin tents
Day 8 – Wadi Rum Sunrise, Dead Sea Resort

Day 9 – Dead Sea to Amman Airport, bid a sad farewell to our driver and guide, Abdullah
 
The Dead Sea is not your typical beach, but a fun place to relax and clean up after touring Jordan.

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Discovering Jordan - Introduction - Icebergs in the Desert




Culture is like an Iceberg was the discussion topic for Mr. Shadeed’s Cultural Studies class.  I learned more than the students.
Teaching gives one insights into local culture, and a regular substitute gets to know a school quickly.  So by the time I had spent a few weeks covering math, history, and French classes in our Dubai international school, I felt fairly competent.  But when given an Arabic teacher’s schedule, I laughed because I knew only two words of Arabic – shukran and la (thank you and no).  Fortunately, another Arabic teacher lent her assistant, and these students are fairly respectful.  But I was relieved when 4th period Cultural Studies required analysis of a simile, and was conducted in English.  I enthusiastically listed iceberg qualities and made Titanic comparisons to culture, until the 7th graders’ eyes started to glaze.  Then they were permitted to create artistic interpretations of the subject, while my mental wheels kept spinning.  That was 9 months ago...

How is culture like an iceberg?  Both are majestic, constantly-evolving creations, their beauty supported by massive hidden structures.
Because of occasional disasters, people fear and avoid icebergs and foreign cultures, even centuries after a scary event.  And it’s true that if we barrel radar-blind through unfamiliar waters, bad things can happen.  But we can learn lessons from the Titanic, such as to slow down around icebergs and other cultures, and understand that much waits to be encountered beneath the surface.  Each of us is like an iceberg, traveling with our cultural families, often bumping into icebergs from other places.  When we are friendly and respectful, our interactions are usually safe and enriching.

Icebergs and cultures might make a big noise when they collide, but mostly they float peacefully, sharing fragments of information when they interact.  An Australian kid once observed, “You’re American, aren’t you?  You sound like the blokes on the telly.”  “That’s funny,” I replied, “so do you.”  (I’ve always thought of ‘British’ accents as intelligent, because of the BBC shows on our educational channel.  Wonder what impression American reality shows give the world?)
Globalization has caused much melting in recent years, so it’s important to record and appreciate our world’s icebergs and cultures as they exist today.  In Dubai’s heat, people from many countries melt together and raise a generation of ‘third-culture kids.’  At school, our young icebergs bump into each other and share information.  Will this create a uniform watered-down culture, or more diverse icebergs?